Saturday, December 8, 2018

How to Hatch Baby Brine Shrimp to Feed Baby Fish

So I found out that feeding live baby brine shrimp (BBS) is one of the keys to really boosting the growth of your fish fry. But there’s so many methods for hatching brine shrimp or making a DIY hatchery – which one should you use? Keep reading as I break it down into detailed, bulletproof steps for you to follow along!

Why Bother with Live BBS?

I’ll admit, I stayed away from hatching baby brine shrimp the first time I raised cory catfish fry because I figured, well, prepared and frozen foods are less of hassle, right? The problem is that it took forever for the fry to grow up, almost 9 months to a year before I felt like they reached a sellable size. So when I started my second breeding project with honey gouramis, I knew I had to do things differently.

Now when I interviewed veteran breeder Larry Brown on how to grow fish fry big and fast, he said, "Baby brine shrimp all the way!" Freshly hatched shrimp still have their yolk sacs, which is super nutritious for babies, and their jerky swimming motions really trigger the fry's feeding instinct. Plus, Dean who breeds fish for Aquarium Co-Op said that he feeds baby brine shrimp to the parents because they’ll breed more readily if they think there’s an abundant supply available for their babies to eat.

feeding honey gourami parents with BBS in the breeding tank
Feeding my honey gourami pair some BBS to get them in mood for breeding

The problem is that I heard hatching BBS is kinda messy and I was afraid it would take too much time and be unsustainable in the long run. Plus, I wasn’t sure which DIY hatching method would be the easiest and cleanest to use. So to make things simpler, I went ahead and ordered the brine shrimp hatchery kit from San Francisco Bay Brand (SFBB).

Materials for Hatching BBS

Brine Shrimp Hatchery Kit from San Francisco Bay Brand (SFBB)
Contents of the SFBB brine shrimp hatchery kit

How to Set Up a Brine Shrimp Hatchery

  1. First you’ll need to empty out the 2-liter bottle. (Since my honey gouramis were first time, inexperienced parents, I actually only ended up with 2 fry and decided to buy a 1-liter bottle of carbonated water instead, which also fit the hatchery base.)
  2. Cut off the bottom of the bottle right where it starts to curve.
  3. Screw the bottle into the black hatchery base. You’ll want to really crank it down so that water doesn’t leak out. (Hence the need for a strong bottle.)
  4. Insert the thermometer all the way to the bottom of the bottle. I have a digital probe, so I just taped the cord to the outside of the bottle so it wouldn’t fall out.
  5. Connect the airline tubing from the bottom of the hatchery to the air pump. To prevent any water from damaging the pump during a power outage, either connect a check valve in between or place the pump higher than the top of the hatchery.
  6. As an optional step, some people like to connect an air valve to the hatchery so they can easily turn on or off the air and prevent the brine shrimp from flowing out, but if you don’t have one, you can also just use a clothespin to pinch the tubing shut.

Setting up a brine shrimp hatchery kit at home
Complete setup of the brine shrimp hatchery

How to Hatch Brine Shrimp

As for how to hatch the brine shrimp, for some reason there’s a bazillion recipes out there, all slightly different, so I researched 3 methods (linked at the bottom), including an in-depth article written by world-renown rainbowfish breeder Gary Lange. Here’s what I learned:
  1. Fill the bottle halfway with warm tap water at about 80°F (no need to dechlorinate it). For the 2 L bottle, I measured out exactly 1 L of water and then marked it with a sharpie on the outside.
    Note: Make sure the airline tubing is attached to the hatchery and is either closed off or has air actively running through it. Otherwise, water will spill out from the bottom of the hatchery when you pour it in.
  2. Turn on the air pump if you haven’t already and let the water bubble for a minute or so. If the bottle starts leaking, try to screw it in even more tightly, maybe using a rubbery jar opener pad to help you. If it’s still leaking, you may have a bad bottle with weak plastic like I did, so get another bottle.
  3. Add 1⅔ to 2 Tbsp of aquarium salt. And then to raise your pH to about 8.0 to 8.5, add about ¼ tsp of baking soda or ½ tsp of Epsom salt.
  4. Add ½ to 1 tsp of baby brine shrimp eggs. If you add too many eggs, your hatch rate won’t be as good.
  5. Turn on the desk light and shine it from the top of the bottle. Aim for a temperature of 80-82°F. If the temperature is cooler, that’s ok – the eggs will just take longer to hatch, more like 30-36 hours. If it’s too hot at 85°F and higher, then it’ll kill the baby brine shrimp, so it's always better to go slightly cooler.
  6. Store the rest of the brine shrimp eggs in the fridge for up to 3-4 weeks or in the freezer for longer periods. Keep the eggs dry and don’t let them ever warm up to room temperature.
  7. Set a timer. In the first 2 to 6 hours, you’ll notice there’s a ring of eggs that are stuck above the water line, so knock them down by swirling the water or using a spoon.
  8. Keep the air pump and the lamp turned on the whole time while the eggs are hatching. After 24 hours, it’s time to collect them.
    Pro Tip: If you need smaller sized BBS for your new fry, you can collect them earlier at the 18-hour mark. Also, if you’ve been using eggs that have been in the freezer for a while, it may take up to 36 hours to hatch.
  9. Close the air valve or pinch the airline tubing shut with a clothespin, and turn off the air. This will prevent the liquid from flowing out. Shine your lamp at the bottom of the bottle, and turn off any other nearby lights. This will cause the shrimp to swim toward the bottom, leaving all the empty shells floating at the top.

    collecting BBS by shining a lamp at the base of the bottle hatchery
    Newly hatched BBS swimming toward the bottom of the hatchery

  10. After 10 minutes, get a shallow dish to collect the shrimp. Open the air valve or clothespin and let the brine shrimp flow out until the liquid turns clear. If the liquid isn’t flowing out, try moving your collection dish lower than the bottom of the hatchery. I personally do not rinse the brine shrimp (e.g., using a brine shrimp net) because a little bit of aquarium salt in a large grow-out tank won’t harm anything, and Cory from Aquarium Co-Op hasn’t had any issues using this method in his fish room for 10+ years.
  11. If you don’t end up feeding all of the baby brine shrimp, store the collection dish with the brine shrimp solution in the fridge to slow down their metabolism and keep them alive for about 2 days.
  12. Take apart the hatchery and scrub it clean with hot water between uses. (Do not reuse the brine shrimp water.) If the hatchery is starting to get dirty or your hatch rates are decreasing, use some diluted bleach to clean it out more thoroughly.
1-month-old baby honey gourami eating BBS
1-month-old honey gourami eating live baby brine shrimp

Review: SFBB Brine Shrimp Hatchery Kit

Easy peasy! After my 2 honey gourami fry survived their first 2 weeks on infusoria, now they’ve glutted themselves on shrimp and are sooo big and fat. I can’t believe how fast they’ve grown! Now that I’m a brine shrimp hatching queen, would I buy the kit again?
  • Pros: It’s super clean to use – I like that I can drain the BBS directly from bottom and minimize any spilling (aka rotting BBS on my kitchen counter). Plus, it’s really easy to take apart and maintenance.
  • Cons: The hatchery kit costs $15 – buuut that’s not really a con for me because a) I’m not a great at building things and b) if I were to construct a bottom-draining hatchery, I would have to start from square one to buy all the parts and tools and it’d probably end up costing about the same amount, if not more.
P.S. Jehmco also makes a really cool hatchery stand for about the same cost, which you can see in Inglorious Bettas’ video.

20-gallon community tank eating live BBS
Even adult nano fish go crazy for live baby brine shrimp!

Question of the Day

Have you ever hatched baby brine shrimp before, and if so, what worked for you? Comment below to share your experiences and share them with the community. Also, if you’re looking for some fun and easy breeding projects, check out my article on how to raise cory catfish. Don’t forget to take time to enjoy your aquariums, and I'll talk to you soon!

Related Links
A Scientific, Economic, and Common-Sense Approach to Brine Shrimp Hatching
Hatching Brine Shrimp Cysts
Hatching Brine Shrimp

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for practical fish care tips for busy aquarists and follow me on Instagram for daily updates! ๐ŸŽฎ❤️๐ŸŸ

Saturday, December 1, 2018

How to Make Infusoria to Feed Baby Fish

Congratulations, you have new baby fish! But no, you didn’t choose to breed some easy livebearer. No, you went for the challenge of egg layers like tetras, gouramis, or rainbowfish that produce the world’s most ridiculously tiny fry possible. Ack, what do you feed them? After researching how fish farms create infusoria to raise fish fry, here’s the easy, bulletproof way I use for making infusoria at home.

After all the fun I had raising my cory catfish, I totally had baby fever and I’m was like, “Sweet! What else can I breed around here?” I decided to find my little honey gourami a wifey because I heard they’re also really easy to breed. Unfortunately, honey gourami fry are super tiny. Unlike guppies and other livebearers, they come out way too small to eat baby brine shrimp, crushed up flake food, and other typical fry foods. So I knew I needed to make infusoria.

What is Infusoria?

Basically, infusoria is an old term referring to single-celled microorganisms like algae, amoebas, paramecium, rotifers, and other protozoans. Everyone says it’s a piece of cake to make: simply add lettuce or cut grass or any kind of organic material to water, put it in windowsill with sunlight, and boom, you have infusoria four to seven days later.

Infursoria consists of unicellular algae, amoeba, paramecium, rotifers, and other protozoans
Types of microorganisms that make up infusoria

Challenges with Making Infusoria

Based on those easy Internet recipes, I put some aquarium water (which should already have some microorganisms in it) in a small plastic tub and added some leaves of baby bok choy (because I’m Asian and that's how I roll). Unfortunately, because I put it in the water raw, the leaves stayed intact for several days and didn’t break down as quickly. After a few days, the water surface got really scummy and smelled totally gross. Plus, because we got several cloudy days in a row, the water didn't get enough sunlight and stayed pretty cold in this wintertime climate. One week later, the baby bok choy started to get some kind of white mold or fungus… was it even safe to use??

white fungus or mold on rotting leaves in infusoria culture after 1 week
White fuzzy fungus or mold on the rotting vegetables in the infusoria culture

At this point the honey gourami eggs had already been laid. I’m doomed! The newly hatched fry were going to starve to death if I didn't have enough infusoria! How could I speed things up?

The Bulletproof Recipe for Making Infusoria

Fortunately, I found an article that describes how fish farms make infusoria because they’re raising thousands of fry at any given time and they need a bulletproof recipe for creating a stable, steady supply of infusoria that’s available at all times. Here’s what I learned:
  1. Start with a clear jar (or larger container if you have more fry) and fill 2/3 to 3/4 of it with dechlorinated tap water or aquarium water. The aquarium water will contain microorganisms to kick start your culture, but make sure it doesn't contain any daphnia or cyclops or else they'll eat up all your infusoria.
  2. Add organic matter to feed the infusoria. Cut up some lettuce leaves and then blanch/boil them for a minute or two before adding them to the jar. You can also use spinach leaves, decomposing aquarium plant leaves that you've pruned off, cut up grass or hay, fry food, a crushed up algae wafer, yeast, or any number of nutrient sources.
  3. Keep the water warm in the 70's degF by putting the jar in a windowsill with sunlight or shining a warm desk lamp on it.
  4. To minimize surface scum and horrible rotting smells, aerate the liquid by stirring it 2 to 3 times a day or adding a little air from an air pump.

    how to make infusoria culture in a jar using a desk lamp and air pump
    Culturing infusoria in a jar using aquarium water, old vallisneria leaves, a desk lamp for warmth, and air pump for aeration
  5. The culture may first turn cloudy as the bacteria colony first grows. Then the culture will become clear and odorless as the infusoria eats up the bacteria. Depending on conditions, it may take about a week to create a dense infusoria culture, so depending on how quickly the eggs hatch, you may want to start the culture at the same time you introduce the fish parents for breeding.
  6. To collect the culture, turn off the air pump, wait a few minutes until all the organic matter has sunk to the bottom, and use a syringe or turkey baster to collect the infusoria just below the water surface. Try to avoid sucking up any rotting organic material so you won't foul the fry tank water. 
  7. Squirt the liquid directly into the water column of your fry grow-out tank and watch them feed!
  8. If you need more infusoria, you can use the old culture to start additional batches of infusoria in new jars.
Macro view of infusoria culture with microorganisms on the left side and a detritus worm on the right side
Macro view of infusoria with small, white moving particles on the left and an detritus worm on the right

My honey gourami fry were in a 10-gallon tank, and I fed them five times a day, alternating between Hikari First Bites and 5 ml syringe full of infusoria culture. Because I was heavily feeding them, I changed 15-20% of their water every day to maintain high water quality. Thankfully once the fry are two weeks old, most of them will be big enough to eat baby brine shrimp and other traditional fry foods.

Related Links
How to Culture Your Own Infusoria at Home
Foolproof Infusoria Culturing
Infusoria and Paramecium Cultures

Question of the Day

Have you made infusoria before, and if so, what worked for you? Comment below to share your experiences because I’d love to hear them. Also, if you're looking for a fun and easy fish to breed, check out my article on raising cory catfish fry. Don’t forget to take time to enjoy your aquariums and I’ll see you next time!

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for practical fish care tips for busy aquarists and follow me on Instagram for daily updates! ๐ŸŽฎ❤️๐ŸŸ

Tuesday, November 27, 2018

Honey Gourami Care Guide: Housing, Food, and Tank Mates!

Are you looking for a colorful centerpiece fish for a small-or medium-sized community tank? The challenge is finding a bigger fish that won't eat or bully smaller, peaceful nano fish.
Betta fish worked well for me in the past, but then I had bad luck with dwarf gouramis and apistogrammas. Surprisingly, the understated honey gourami ended up being the perfect choice for my 20-gallon aquarium!

What is a Honey Gourami?

Despite having similar common names, the honey gourami (Trichogaster chuna) is not the same thing as the dwarf gourami (Trichogaster lalius). In general, honey gouramis are smaller and more peaceful than dwarf gouramis, only reaching about 2 inches (5 cm) in captivity. Also, because they’re different species, the honey gourami doesn’t appear to carry the dreaded dwarf gourami iridovirus.

What Colors Do Honey Gouramis Come In?

I've heard there are actually three color types:
  • Wild type: silvery-light yellow with yellow on their finnage
  • Gold/yellow: bright yellow with yellow/orange fins and tails (most common variety seen at major pet stores)
  • Sunset red: I've never seen it before but apparently it is red and sometimes mistaken for the sunset red thick-lipped gourami (Trichogaster labiosa)
wild type honey gourami versus golden yellow honey gourami
Wild type (left) versus gold/yellow type (right) of honey gourami

Females will tend to be paler in color than males, with a brown line extending all the way from the eye to the base of their tail, whereas males in breeding dress are very vibrantly colored and often have black markings on their throat and abdomen.

Where Do Honey Gouramis Come From?

They’re commonly found in northeastern India in low altitude, heavily vegetated, sluggish waters like ponds and ditches. The reason why they’re considered a very hardy beginner fish is because they regularly live through annual monsoon rains that will wreck havoc on their water temperature, parameters, clarity, etc. So that’s great news for novice fish keepers!

wild type honey gouramis in heavily planted tank

What Kind of Tank Setup Is Recommended?

Maybe 5-10 gallons for a single fish and 20 gallons for two to three fish. Like betta fish, gouramis are labyrinth fishes that can breathe from the surface, so they like to swim in the mid- to top levels of the aquarium, but I also find them at the bottom looking for food or just chilling. You’ll want slower water current, a lid to keep the surface air nice and humid, and because they can be a little timid, lots of plants and dรฉcor to make them more comfortable.

What Should You Feed Them?

Nothing to worry about there! Honey gouramis have great appetites and aren’t very picky, so just give them a wide variety of any small-sized foods meant for omnivores – dried, frozen, live, or whatever. I personally feed mine Repashy Community Plus gel food, New Life Spectrum Small Fish Formula, Fluval Bug Bites, freeze-dried bloodworms, and various frozen foods.

female honey gourami eating frozen brine shrimp
Honey gourami pigging out on frozen brine shrimp

What About Tank Mates for Honey Gouramis?

They definitely live up to their reputation as a peaceful, slow-moving community fish, so keep them with other calm fish like small tetras and corydoras. Don’t choose tank mates that are super active, will pick on them, or will outcompete them for food – like tiger barbs or my bully of a German blue ram. My honey gourami stayed hidden the whole time till that blue ram died, and even then, the poor thing had PTSD and would never come out.

Honey gouramis are not a schooling fish per se, but if you keep multiples, they will form a hierarchy of sorts where the dominant ones chase the others away during from food or their favorite spots. When I had two females in quarantine, I noticed that even if I spread out the food, the dominant female would leave her pile of food to swim all the way across the tank and chase the other female away from her pile of food. So they’re not entirely as peaceful as, like, corydoras or something.

How Do You Breed Honey Gouramis?

It's pretty easy and I plan to write a second article all about it. Like bettas, the male makes a bubble nest, courts the female, and then scoops up the fertilized eggs into the nest, guarding them until they hatch in 24-36 hours. Unfortunately, the fry are extremely tiny, so you'll have to work a little harder to feed them in the beginning.

male honey gourami guarding bubble nest with baby fry

So Is the Honey Gourami Worth It?

Heck yeah, two thumbs up for an amazingly peaceful and resilient centerpiece fish. Don’t let those pale colors at the pet store fool you. Take that little underdog home, get him well-fed and happy, and you won’t be sorry for giving him a chance!

Related Links

Question of the Day

What's your favorite centerpiece fish for a nano tank? Comment below to share your ideas. Don’t forget to take time to enjoy your aquariums and I’ll see you next time!

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for practical fish care tips for busy aquarists and follow me on Instagram for daily updates! ๐ŸŽฎ❤️๐ŸŸ

Saturday, November 24, 2018

5 Ways to Reduce Aquarium Filter Flow for Fish and Axolotls

Is your betta fish struggling to swim because of fast current or are your axolotl’s gills curved forward from the strong flow? Many types of aquarium pets – like gouramis, puffer fish, baby fry, and angelfish – are more comfortable in slower waters, and without the appropriate living conditions, your pet may become sick from the stressful environment. Keep reading as I share 5 easy ways for reducing your filter’s flow!

#1 Choose the Right Filter

If you haven't purchased your filter already, choose an internal filter, hang-on-back filter, or canister filter with an adjustable flow. That way you can set the flow to be as low as possible. Generally, you don't want to pick a filter that is too oversized for the size of your aquarium; otherwise it may be harder to sufficiently reduce the flow. (As a rule of thumb, the recommendation is to aim for a water turnover rate for at least three to four times the volume of the aquarium.)

If you really want to go for the gentlest flow, use a sponge filter. Remember that you must also install it with airline tubing and an air pump, but oftentimes the air pump also comes with a dial to let you adjust the amount of air pressure.

Sponge filter for raising baby honey gourami fry
For the gentlest flow, use a sponge filter and your baby fish fry will thank you for it!

#2 Block the Input

If you got an aquarium kit, the default filter it comes with may be too powerful for bettas, axolotls, and other slower water animals. Some people will cover the input of the filter with pantyhose or sponge to lower the flow. While this can be helpful for preventing betta fins from getting sucked in, be careful about restricting the inflow too much because you don't want the filter motor to burn out. For example, if you're going to use a pre-filter sponge on the input, get a coarser one so it won't get clogged as quickly.

#3 Block the Output

Rather than blocking the input, it's better to block the output instead using a baffle, which is simply anything that blocks or redirects the water flow out of the filter. You can stuff a small piece of sponge in the output nozzle and attach it with rubber band or fishing line. Or you can cover the output nozzle entirely using a pre-filter sponge. If you have a hang-on-back filter, you can still block the waterfall outflow by covering it with a sponge or craft mesh.

DIY filter baffle for a betta tank using sponge in the output nozzle
You can attach sponge on the filter output using rubber bands, sewing thread, or fishing line.

#4 Disperse the Outflow

If your filter has an output nozzle, you can aim the stream toward the water surface or back wall of the aquarium to dispel some of the water's energy. For hang-in-back filters with a waterfall outflow, many betta forums commonly recommend covering it with a disposable water bottle. However, if you're having trouble getting it to stay attached, try placing a plastic soap dish container or shower caddy with suction cups under the waterfall. You can fill the plastic dish with glass marbles, sponge, or even live moss to dispel the flow. The great thing about this method is that you can reduce the current without affecting the turnover rate.

DIY aquarium filter baffle using plastic soap dish
Use a brand new soap dish container with suction cups to act as a baffle under the filter waterfall (source: Tropical Fish Keeping)

Speaking of live moss, you can also place live plants or decorations right under or in front of the output. Not only does a lot of aquarium decor break up line of sight for aggressive fish, but it also breaks up the current swirling around the fish tank.

add decor under the filter output to disperse the outflow in an axolotl aquarium

#5 Reduce the Pressure

Finally, you can disperse the pressure of the output by using a spray bar with lots of holes along the tube. Again, the spray bar can be aimed toward the aquarium back wall or toward the water surface to reduce energy. Some nano tanks like the Fluval Spec or Top Fin Retreat have a filter compartment where a small pump is connected to a flow tube to reach the return nozzle of aquarium. You can drill holes in the flow tube to reduce the pump pressure even further if needed.

Depending on your setup, you may need to combine several of these methods in order to sufficiently bring down the flow, but it's definitely worth it and your betta fish, axolotl, and other aquatic pets will thank you for it!

Question of the Day

Do you have a good way to reduce filter flow? Comment below to let me know and to share your experiences with everyone. Don’t forget to take time to enjoy your aquariums and I’ll see you next time!

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for practical fish care tips for busy aquarists and follow me on Instagram for daily updates! ๐ŸŽฎ❤️๐ŸŸ

Saturday, November 17, 2018

The Ultimate Gift Guide for Aquarium Hobbyists

When it comes to Christmas or birthday gifts, fish keepers are a pain to shop for. The last thing you want is for a well-meaning friend or family member to buy you fish sight unseen! Here’s my list of top 10 gift ideas for aquarium lovers, but let me know in the comments if you think I’m missing something.

#10 Gift Cards

It's always safe to get someone a gift card to their favorite pet store, fish store, or online store. You can also give them straight up cash or take them on a shopping trip.
Petco gift card
Aquarium Co-Op card

#9 Experiences

Instead of a physical item, how about an experience? Offer to pay for their membership at the local aquarium society or take the to the aquarium or zoo. If there's an aquarium convention nearby, get them tickets so they can meet vendors and other fish lovers.
Aquatic Experience
Aquatic Gardeners Association
American Livebearer Association

Rachel O'leary book

#8 Reading Materials

Got someone who likes to read? Maybe they'd appreciate a magazine subscription. I get the Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine for free through my aquarium society, so I'd apppreciate a nice reference book, like Rachel O'leary's nano species book or Dennerle's aquascaping guide.
AMAZONAS magazine
Tropical Fish Hobbyist
Practical Fishkeeping
Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
The 101 Best Freshwater Nano Species
Dennerle Aquascaping Guide

#7 Gadgets

Who doesn't love a good gadget? Below are some ideas that range all the way from a small algae scraper as a stocking stuffer to the big, "I'm feeling very generous" PAR meter.
Python water change system
Automatic fish feeder
Magnetic algae scraper
TDS meter
PAR meter

Heater controller for aquariums

#6 "Just in Case" Stuff

These are items that are always good to have around in case of an emergency – necessary but often forgotten.
Heater controller
UPS battery backup (do your research first!)
Digital thermometer
Emergency supplies

#5 Medications

Speaking of "just in case," medications are always good to have around. Aquarium Co-Op recommends the medication trio that's a good broad-spectrum treatment for quarantine and illnesses.
General Cure

Net breeder

#4 Fish Breeding

Looking to get into some breeding projects this year? Here are some fun items that will make your life easier when raising new babies.
Brine shrimp hatchery
Breeder basket
Egg tumbler
Sponge filter
Check valve
Air pump

#3 Aquarium Plants

Aquascaping an aquarium with live plants and hardscape is so fun and rewarding, so check out these basic tools that will help you get started.
Aquascaping tools set
Planted tank substrate

Socks with fish on them

#2 Knick-Knacks

There's no better way to declare your love of aquariums than by owning fish-themed accessories, artwork, and toys. Here are some ideas to get you started.
Artwork or photography
Stuffed animals

#1 Just Ask ๐Ÿ˜Š

I have to admit, I hate shopping so I usually ask everyone around Thanksgiving what they want for Christmas. That way everyone gets what they want and I can spend less time wandering the aisles of Target or the mall.

Question of the Day

What would you add to my ultimate gift guide for fish keepers? Comment below to let me know what you think. Don’t forget to take time to enjoy your aquariums and I’ll see you next time!

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for practical fish care tips for busy aquarists and follow me on Instagram for daily updates! ๐ŸŽฎ❤️๐ŸŸ

Saturday, November 10, 2018

Confessions of a Pet Store Employee (feat. Fish for Thought)

Ever wonder what it’s like to work at a pet store and help new fish keepers? Check out my interview with Chris Wang, host of the funny and educational YouTube channel “Fish for Thought,” about life as a pet store employee. Topics include great advice for beginners, bulletproof aquarium setups, funny stories that happened at the story, and the difference between Canadian vs. American fish keeping. Afterwards, don’t forget to check out the collab video I did for his channel on honey gourami care, linked below:

My “Honey Gourami Care” collab video on Chris’ channel
Fish for Thought channel
Chris’ Instagram

Question of the Day

Have you ever wanted to work at a fish or pet store? Do you think you’d be good at educating new fish keepers? Comment below to share your thoughts because I’d love to hear them. Don’t forget to take time to enjoy your aquariums and I’ll see you next time!

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for practical fish care tips for busy aquarists and follow me on Instagram for daily updates! ๐ŸŽฎ❤️๐ŸŸ

Wednesday, October 31, 2018

How to Survive an Aquarium Power Outage

Happy Halloween! I just went through a scary power outage this week and, boy, there’s nothing like the real deal to kick your aquarium emergency preparedness into gear. Find out what you should do with your aquariums when the power goes out (and whether or not my fish survived…๐Ÿ’€). Topics include:

▶ Equipment needed for aquarium emergency preparedness
▶ Instructions for surviving a power outage
▶ Mistakes I made and lessons learned

Materials I Used

Related Links

Question of the Day

How do you prepare for your aquariums in case of a power outage? Comment below to share your experiences because I’d love to hear them. Don’t forget to take time to enjoy your aquariums and I’ll see you next time!

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for practical fish care tips for busy aquarists and follow me on Instagram for daily updates! ๐ŸŽฎ❤️๐ŸŸ